Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena

About this book

Originally published in 1934, Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three investigates tidal bores and other progressive waves in rivers. Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation, such as tidal sand waves, leaping waves and the roll waves of a stream. Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena will serve as an important reference work for researchers in the field and will be of considerable value to anyone interested in geophysics, climatology and oceanography.

Contents

Preface
Bibliography

Part I. The Size and Speed of Ocean Waves in Relation to the Velocity of Wind:
1. Measurements from a ship hove-to during a storm
2. Observations at sea on the effect of squalls upon waves
3. Observations of the period of breakers indicating the limiting speeds of waves and the relation to speed of wind
4. The height of ocean waves measured from ships on their course
5. On the sea-room required for the full development of waves
6. The steepness of waves on oceans, inland seas and lakes
7. The reaction of ocean swell upon the wind

Part II. Waves in Sand and Snow Formed and Propelled by Wind and Current:
8. Waves in sand formed and propelled by wind
9. Waves in drifting snow
10. Sub-aqueous sand waves

Part III. Tidal Bores and Other Progressive Waves in Rivers:
11. On the discharge of a progressive from a standing wave in the Rapids of Niagara
12. Roll waves in shallow water flowing in a flat-bottomed channel
13. On tidal bores which assume the form of a group of short waves

Additional notes Harold Jeffreys
Index

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