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Academic & Professional Books  Earth System Sciences  Hydrosphere  Oceanography

Wind Generated Ocean Waves

By: IR Young
306 pages
Publisher: Elsevier
Wind Generated Ocean Waves
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  • Wind Generated Ocean Waves ISBN: 9780080433172 Hardback Mar 1999 Not in stock: Usually dispatched within 1-2 weeks
    £98.99
    #99285
Price: £98.99
About this book Contents Customer reviews Related titles

About this book

The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.

Contents

Part 1 Wave theory: introduction; small amplitude or linear theory; wave transformation; limitations of linear wave theory. Part 2 Stochastic properties of ocean waves: introduction; probability distribution of wave heights; global distribution of wave properties; limitations of global statistics. Part 3 Physical mechanisms of wave evolution: introduction; radiative transfer equation; atmospheric input, Sin*; nonlinear quadruplet interactions, Sni*; white-cap dissipation, Sds*; the spectral balance. Part 4 Fetch and duration limited growth: introduction; similarity theory and dimensionless scaling; growth curves for energy and peak frequency; one-dimensional spectrum; directional spreading. Part 5 Non-stationary wind fields: introduction; the interaction of swell and wind sea; rapid change in wind speed; rapid change in wind direction; hurricane wind and wave fields. Part 6 Finite depth effects: introduction; physical processes; finite depth growth curves; finite depth one-dimensional spectra; finite depth directional spreading. Part 7 Numerical modelling of waves: introduction; phase resolving models; phase averaging models; source term representation; computational aspects; the WAM model data assimilation. Part 8 Ocean wave measurement: introduction; "in situ" methods; data analysis; remote sensing techniques.

Customer Reviews

By: IR Young
306 pages
Publisher: Elsevier
Media reviews
(Robert E. Jensen, Coastal & Hydraulics Laboratory) "(...)I thoroughly enjoyed reading Wind Generated Ocean Waves. As the introduction states, "this book attempts to summarize the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common framework and attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short-term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding." The task of writing such a work with these expectations is a difficult one; however, Young has clearly fulfilled these goals. Wind Generated Ocean Waves is outstanding and I believe it would be an excellent addition for anyone who is serious about this field of study." Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society
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