Exmoor is one of only three large areas of moorland in southern England. Together with Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor, these moorlands of the south-west have long been an inspiration for field naturalists of all descriptions. It seems appropriate, therefore, that this volume should bring the inspiration and the particularities of place together and allow the landscape of Exmoor and its richness to shine.
Exmoor’s landscape shares many qualities with moorlands elsewhere and large parts may not be particularly distinctive. As much as two-fifths of Exmoor is moorland, deciduous woodland or unfarmable coastal slopes, but the majority is pastoral farmland. However, it is in the juxtaposition of these habitats, and the edge-zones and transitions, that there is both charm and scientific interest to be derived. Exmoor’s pattern and combination of vegetation types give it significance, with a disposition of low- and higher-altitude communities. And in hidden corners and combes off the main plateau, on the steepest slopes and on very wet ground, a diverse ancient landscape survives, and we find rich hedges providing some linear habitats. In addition are the stunning coastal woods. Its position as an upland massif on the western seaboard also gives it a distinctiveness.
As someone actively involved with the environment of the South-West, Flemming Ulf-Hansen now provides us with a scholarly yet accessible volume on this fabulous area.
Editors’ Preface vii
Author’s Foreword and Acknowledgements ix
1. The Essence of Exmoor 1
2. Landscape 17
3. The Influence of People 35
4. Rivers and Still Waters 51
5. Peatland, Bogs, Mires and Drainage 99
6. Heaths, Hog’s-back Hills and Commons 147
7. Woodland and Parkland 211
8. The Hidden Coast 293
9. Farming, Farmland and the Wider Countryside 361
10. Conservation: a Crucible of Change 427
Appendix: Designated Sites within Exmoor National Park 477
Endnotes 479
References 485
Species Index 506
General Index 515
Picture Credits 530
Flemming Ulf-Hansen is an ecologist living in Somerset, who graduated from the University of Bradford and gained a master’s degree from the University of Western Ontario. His doctorate was on the ecology and evolution of grass weeds from the University of Liverpool. He joined the Nature Conservancy Council in 1988 and has nearly 37 years of experience of conserving protected sites and wildlife, mainly on Exmoor but more recently Salisbury Plain. He chaired the Somerset Environmental Records Centre for many years. Particularly interested in ecological restoration and working closely with farmers and land-owners, he was involved in peatland restoration, chairing the Exmoor Mires Project through its formative stages. He was awarded a Churchill Fellowship in 2010 to study the ecosystem approach to habitat restoration. In his work, he has also been involved in the management of grasslands, woodlands, heathlands as well as invasive species control – developing a healthy loathing for rhododendron and Montbretia.