Lechuguilla Cave Discoveries in a Hidden Splendor

Lechuguilla Cave in New Mexico would be a dead ringer for one of the Seven Wonders of the World, if only the authors of that bucket list had known of its existence earlier. I read about this cave recently while reviewing Onstott's Deep Life, where it was mentioned as an example of caves forming in unusual ways. While doing some more background research, I came across this book that, though published in 2022, had escaped my attention so far. Edited by geoscientists Max Wisshak and Hazel A. Barton, it combines a mouth-watering photographic portfolio with a series of informative essays to share this cave's spectacular beauty with the wider world

What makes Lechuguilla so exceptional is its complicated, mazelike structure and the numerous speleothems or mineral formations that occur throughout, some of which are the largest of their type in the world. Situated in Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico, USA, it was only discovered in 1986 when cavers further excavated a pit in a former guano mine. Though periodic strong airflow in the pit had been known for several decades and hinted at the existence of a cave, nobody was prepared for the sheer scale, complexity, and otherworldly beauty to be found underground. Within the first few years, some 80 km was mapped, and when this book went to print in 2022, that number stood at almost 245 km, according to the fact sheet in the back. This places it somewhere at the bottom of the top 10 of the world's longest caves

Despite being a subterranean wonderland, it is quite possible you are only vaguely familiar with Lechuguilla. Realising just how pristine this cave was, cavers and park authorities quickly agreed to restrict access to a limited number of scientists and cavers annually, and carefully vet applications for expeditions. Even within the caving community, only a select few have ever set foot inside. Since then, there have been a few notable public appearances of this cave, with most readers here remembering it from a segment in episode 4 of Planet Earth. For this book, Wisshak & Barton have assembled a group of 36 scientists and cavers who contribute short, 2–4-page essays that alternate with substantive portfolios of amazing photos. The 13 essays break down into two sections: six dealing with the cave system, and seven with different facets of its exploration

Lechuguilla occurs in New Mexico's Guadalupe Mountains in limestone formations that formed from the remains of the Permian Capitan Reef. As Deep Life mentioned, and is explained here in more detail, one remarkable aspect of the speleogenesis process is the “how”. Most caves are epigenic, forming when slightly acidic surface water erodes passages downwards through rock under the force of gravity. Some are hypogenic, formed from below as acidic groundwater rises to the surface. The latter can be particularly complex and maze-like in its three-dimensional structure, and much effort has gone into systematically exploring and mapping the cave over the last four decades. A four-page gatefold shows a sprawling diagram of the cave complex as of 2022, though significant new discoveries continue to be made

Another feature that makes Lechuguilla a magnet for cavers is the many enormous speleothems that have resulted from processes of dissolution and deposition. Stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone towers, metres-long crystals, calcite rafts, helictites, cave clouds, folia-coated walls, calcite popcorn, crinkle blisters, spitzkarren... Millions of years of water levels rising and falling, of pools forming and evaporating, have overwritten and modified previous formations, resulting in complex composites. Words can hardly do justice to the otherworldly beauty to be found here, and, appropriately, these essays feature the most extensive photographic portfolios. This is where Lechuguilla Cave simply mesmerises, though the contributors add an interesting reality check. Photogenic as the cave may be, it would also be a mistake to think it is festooned with speleothems throughout; many sections consist of plain rubble. Water is key, and the geological magic happens where surface water infiltrates.

The second set of seven essays focuses on caving in Lechuguilla, covering everything from preparation and life underground in one of the four base camps; the exploration, mapping, and photographing of the caves; to the twin challenges of conservation and (fortunately rare) rescue missions. These sections feature shorter photographic portfolios mostly showing cavers in action. What stands out is the seriousness and maturity of the community that has formed around Lechuguilla, marked by an ethos of respect and self-policing. Conservation takes priority over exploration, and, in consultation with park authorities, certain areas can remain off-limits if no way is found to cross them without causing damage. Where it proceeds, exploration is done both methodically and carefully, marking trails with tape to limit where hands and feet are placed, while no drills are allowed to install climbing bolts. Traversing certain areas can involve changing into clean gear repeatedly so as not to soil unique formations with cave dirt, while a strict leave-no-traces policy extends to bodily waste. The impression I am left with is that exploration of Lechuguilla has set a new standard of conduct in the world of caving

These short essays are very informative, but the real selling point of this book is, without a doubt, the outstanding photography. Numerous crisp single or double-page photos take up almost 200 of the book's 240 pages as Lechuguilla is best described in pictures. Many of the photographers have years of experience and regularly contribute photos to various publications. One notable feature is the inclusion of one or several humans, and you soon realise why: without them, it is hard to get a sense of scale. The sometimes tiny human figures convey just how large some of these passages, rooms, and formations are. It makes for visually arresting pictures that invite scrutiny; you want to spend time with each of them rather than casually flip through the book. The lighting is often cleverly hidden behind rocks or humans to produce dramatic backlighting.

A final word of praise goes to the production values. Wisshak has been contributing photos to magazines, calendars, and books for decades, and one reason to start his own publishing company was to influence quality control. Lechuguilla Cave is printed on good paper stock, sturdily bound, and professionally laid out: it oozes quality. Little wonder it has won several prizes. Lechuguilla might be off-limits to the vast majority of people, but this wonderful book allows you to vicariously go on an unforgettable caving expedition.